When you purchase through links on our website, we may earn a commission. Affiliate disclosure.
Recumbent trikes are becoming increasingly popular, and I can see why. Up until recently, I had never ridden a recumbent, but the first time I had a go on one I was hooked! In this article, I will be looking at some of the best electric conversion kits for recumbent trikes or bikes.
Due to the extra weight and design, Recumbent trikes (and bikes) are an excellent choice for electric conversion. If you have been thinking about adding E-assist to your recumbent, the great news is most regular conversion kits will fit. Below I will go into more detail on the different types of kits available, and their compatibility.
So what are the best electric conversion kits for recumbent trikes and bikes?
All of the kits listed in this article have been successfully installed, by myself on a variety of different recumbent trikes and bikes. Although these kits are generally reliable, some will require ongoing maintenance. I have been as honest as possible in my appraisal of each kit. If you have any questions regarding compatibility, please leave a comment below and I will respond within 24 hrs.
Do I need a recumbent-specific electric conversion kit?
The simple answer to this question is no. There are some brand-specific kits available like the Terra Trike Bosch boost kit which comes pre-installed in a new boom, but these can be very expensive when compared to the other options listed in this article. You will need to consider several things beforehand. If you are fitting a crank motor you will need to check bottom bracket compatibility (see below). If you are fitting a hub motor, you will need to make sure you get the right-sized wheel – If you have an internally geared hub fitted (like a Rohloff) a rear hub motor would not be an option.
How much power?
This depends on your physical ability. If you have a health issue that prevents you from prolonged periods of exertion, or you are recovering from an injury, then it is likely you would need the electric motor to give you a lot of assistance, and maybe even have a throttle fitted to either get you rolling or enable you to have a break from pedalling once in a while.
I don’t believe in motors that produce so much power that the need for pedalling becomes redundant as that will cancel out the health benefits of pedalling. But having a motor that complements and enhances your physical abilities enabling you to cycle further for longer and tackle more challenging terrain is a great idea. I know of many fit riders who choose e-assist, not because they’re lazy, but because it enhances the whole recumbent riding experience.
What about Electric bike laws?
The power output you choose will also be important regarding the law in your country. The UK, Europe and Australia for example have a universal 250w power limit and 25 km/h pedal assist limit. In the US, federal law is 750w and 20mph and in Canada, it is 500w and 20mph.
All the recumbents I have converted so far have been 250w, and I find that provides more than enough assistance (and I live in an incredibly hilly area). But my experiences are subjective – I ride between 70-100 miles a week on a road bike, so I am fairly fit. If you are getting back into cycling using a recumbent after a long illness or injury then 250w may not be enough power. This is why I believe the law in the UK and Europe needs a serious overhaul.
You cannot exclude people from a potentially life-enhancing experience like riding a recumbent or bicycle by limiting the amount of assistance they can have. I think a more rational approach would be a 750w upper limit with a 20mph maximum speed just like in the US. Most competent road cyclists can comfortably maintain 20-25mph on the flat and hit speeds of over 50mph on long descents!
Is my Recumbent suitable for E-assist conversion?
If you are thinking about adding a crank motor to your recumbent, one of the most important things to consider is your bottom bracket shell. Most recumbents I have converted have a standard threaded bottom bracket shell, which is usually 68mm wide with an internal diameter of approximately 33.5mm. This would accommodate a regular square-tapered sealed cartridge bottom bracket or a Shimano Hollowtech II or SRAM GPX BB with external cup bearings.
An FSA BB30 pressfit bottom bracket, on the other hand, has an internal diameter of 42mm, so you would need to purchase a BB30 to BSA adaptor shim.
Another important consideration is where to mount the battery pack. Some people prefer to mount the battery on a rear rack, but this can limit space for bags, panniers etc. One excellent solution is made by Terracycle and is a recumbent-specific battery mounting plate.
The two most popular and well-known crank motors – the Bafang BBS and Tongsheng TSDZ2 will fit into a standard bottom bracket shell without any hassles.
Another thing to consider is gearing. The Tongsheng and Bafang utilise a single front chainring. If you have a triple or double crankset up front you will be going from 27-speed down to 9-speed, although with electric assist this becomes much less of a problem.
Best Electric conversion kits for recumbent trikes and bikes
My top 3 favourite kits for recumbents are ones that I have personal experience installing. None of these kits are perfect and it is worth remembering that compromises may need to be made, but generally speaking, all the kits below have so far served my customers well. That is not to say issues will not occur in future, because unfortunately, any mass-produced electrical item will have chinks in its armour!
Tongsheng TSDZ2
The TSDZ2 has now been around for a good few years and has (thankfully) been improved over the years. Early models proved troublesome, but thankfully the problems are not as frequent as before.
The Tongsheng is a great little motor as it uses a torque sensor (along with cadence and speed sensing) to provide electric assist. This provides the rider with very intuitive assistance. Pedal lightly without applying much force and the motor will not give much in the way of assistance, apply more force to the pedals and the motor will give you assistance proportionate to the force you apply.
The transition is very smooth and this is one of the reasons the Tongsheng is a favourite amongst recumbent riders.
This motor is available in 36v 250w / 350w and 500w variants and also 48 v 350w / 500w and 750w versions.
Why do I think the TSDZ2 is especially suited to a recumbent?
For starters, it is a very small, discreet motor and it isn’t particularly heavy, weighing in at around 3.6kg. There is a threaded hole on the motor, which is important as when you install it you will need to be able to stop the motor from pivoting in the bottom bracket shell. A 38mm stainless steel P-clip is sufficient to secure the motor to the boom of your trike along with a short M8 bolt. This applies to Ice Trikes, as I know other brands will probably have a different diameter on the boom.
It is incredibly efficient – I managed to squeeze a 120-mile range out of a 36v 13ah battery using mainly the ‘ECO’ pedal assist mode. Although this kind of mileage wouldn’t be typical as it would depend on various factors.
This motor produces a lot of torque, making short work of hills. But you will need to be mindful of being in the right gear for steep climbs, just as you would on any bike. Climb a steep hill in a too higher gear, and you run the risk of placing too much load on the motor and risk damage.
One more important thing to remember when using the Tongsheng, is before you switch the motor on, make sure you keep your feet off the pedals. Starting the system with your feet resting on the pedals will hurt the torque sensor calibration. If you do this by accident, just stop riding, turn the motor off, wait for a few seconds and turn the motor on again (making sure your feet are not resting on the pedals).
| Motor | Battery | Peak Power |
|---|---|---|
| Tongsheng TSDZ2 36v (250w variant) | 36v (42.2v x 16A) | 675w |
| Tongsheng TSDZ2 48v (500w variant) | 48v (54.4v x 16A) | 870w |
Reliability Issues
So far I have been lucky with the Tongsheng motor and haven’t had any issues reported to date. Having spent hours trawling Endless-Sphere.com it is obvious that there are several weak points with this motor.
- The blue nylon primary gear can fail prematurely – a brass version of this gear is available as a replacement.
- The sprag clutch or one-way bearing can fail – replacements are easy to obtain.
- Torque sensor – surging or erratic pedal assist can signal problems with the torque sensing system.
- Faulty display units – seems more of an issue with the VLCD5 display.
Another thing to consider when fitting this motor is the exaggerated Q-factor. Particularly the drive side crank arm is about 20mm more offset than the non-drive side. This can be mitigated by fitting either standard Bafang crank arms, that can be purchased in 152mm, 170mm and 175mm lengths or Shimano Steps FC-E8000 crank arms.
One more thing is to remember to purchase a Tongsheng speed sensor extension cable (110mm) as the standard cable will not reach the speed sensor mounted on the rear chainstay.
Conclusion
The Tongsheng TSDZ2 is a cost-effective way to add e-assist to your recumbent, but installation should be carried out by someone confident in doing the job correctly. There are also potential long-term reliability issues that need to be considered. You need to be a ‘hands-on’ kind of person to fit one of these kits and deal with any potential issues that may arise in future.
Most manufacturers now offer e-assist on their recumbent trikes and bikes, but these are comparatively expensive when compare with the DIY kit option. The Bosch, Yamaha and Shimano Steps units are renowned for their reliability over massive distances, but are nigh on impossible to repair should something go wrong. The TSDZ2 on the other hand can be fixed by any DIY enthusiast as the motor itself is easy enough to work on and spare parts are readily available.
>Check out Recumbent Trikes and Bikes on eBay<
The motor performance is, in my opinion on par with the Bosch Active Plus, it produces plenty of power, especially in ‘Turbo’ mode and is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Pedalling with the assist off and the extra weight and slight resistance of the motor becomes evident – not a problem on the flat, but if you run out of battery power with a long climb to tackle you could have some problems.
All in all, I’m giving this motor the thumbs up! It’s great value, it performs well and does the job. Links below on where to purchase this motor.
| Amazon |
| eBay |
| Aliexpress |
| Check the Latest Prices at ebikepricecomparison.com |
Bafang BBS01 / BBS02 / BBSHD
The Bafang mid-drive motor has been a market leader for over five years, and it continues to be the best-selling electric bike conversion kit in its class.
The motor itself is a great little unit, and for the most part seems fairly reliable. I used a Bafang BBS02 powered bike for a year, covering nearly 2000 miles without any problems whatsoever.
The Bafang motor is currently available in many different variants: BBS01B 36v 250w / 350w BBS02B 36v 500w, BBS02B 48v 500w / 750w, BBSHD 48v 1000w.
Which model you choose depends on the amount of power you need. As I have mentioned previously, you will need to carefully consider the law in your country.
The tables below show the peak power output of all the Bafang models (with a fully charged battery).
| Bafang Motor | Battery | Peak Power |
|---|---|---|
| BBS01B 250w | 36v (42.2v x 15A) | 633w |
| BBS01B 350w | 36v (42.2v x 18A) | 759w |
| Bafang Model | Battery | Peak Power (Watts) |
|---|---|---|
| BBS02 500w 36v | 36v (42.2v x 25A) | 1055w |
| BBS02 500w 48v | 48v (54.4v x 18A) | 864w |
| BBS02 500w 52v | 52v (58.8v x 18A) | 1058w |
| BBS02 750w 48v | 48v (54.4v x 25A) | 1200w |
| BBS02 750w 52v | 52v (58.8v x 25A) | 1470w |
| Bafang Motor | Battery | Peak Power |
|---|---|---|
| BBSHD | 48v (54.4v) x 30A | 1632w |
| BBSHD | 52v (58.8v) x 30A | 1764w |
It is worth noting that the peak power figures do not represent the nominal power output of these motors. The 250w motor for example can peak at over 600w briefly whilst under load, but the ‘keep current’ setting in the controller programming will ramp back the power once pedalling cadence increases.
In my opinion 250w provides adequate electric assistance, but if you are after some real power the BBSHD is on another level! If you were planning an off-road adventure then the BBSHD would be more than up to the job. I have ridden many bikes powered by this motor and the amount of torque it produces never ceases to put a smile on my face.
The ‘HD’ stands for heavy duty and I think the point of buying a BBSHD would be in the robust design of the motor. It is very heavy at nearly 5kg, but if you just wanted a super reliable drive unit that could be ridden day in and day out without a care in the world then this is a great bit of kit. And of course, you don’t have to ride it in full power mode. You have 9 power levels to choose from and level 1 is around the 250w mark, so you can still get a workout if you so desire.
The best all-rounder for me is the BBS02B, whether in 36v 500w or 48v 750w guise. Although it doesn’t produce the raw grunt of the HD, it still produces more power than most of us will ever need and it is a bit more affordable.
Buy the Bafang M625 from Amazon
Riding a Bafang-powered recumbent
Unlike the Tongsheng, the Bafang motor uses a much more simple cadence-based pedal assist, which acts like an on/off switch. The way the power ramps up once pedalling begins depends on the way the motor controller is configured, the rpm of the motor will also be limited by the controller settings.
One of the great features of the Bafang is that you can alter these settings easily using a laptop and USB programming lead and free open-source software – you can reprogram the motor to produce a very smooth and intuitive level of pedal assist. The best beginner’s guide to programming the Bafang can be found on Karls Electric bike blog.
Is the Bafang mid-drive motor suitable for a recumbent?
Like the TSDZ2, the Bafang motor wasn’t designed specifically for recumbents, but having installed a couple of recumbent bikes myself, it seems to do the job perfectly! It is heavier than the TSDZ2 at around 4kg (4.8kg for the BBSHD) and physically slightly larger.
The short video below shows a recent installation of a Bafang BBS01B 36v 250w onto an HP Velotechnik Grasshopper recumbent bike.
The main criteria for installation are the same as with the Tongsheng. The motor shaft will fit a standard 68mm BSA threaded bottom bracket shell. The one important consideration is to make sure that the motor is secured tightly so it does not pivot in the BB shell. The mounting plate provided by Bafang will go some way to prevent the motor from moving, but you will want to have a Bafang lockring spanner in your toolkit just in case you need to tighten the motor.
As with the Tongsheng, you will need to purchase an additional speed sensor extension cable as the standard cable will not reach the motor.
To mount the display, you will need something like the Minoura accessory mount (as used on the conversion above). Terracycle also does a mount specifically for recumbents.
As with any electric conversion, where you decide to mount your battery is important. You could go for a small compact bottle battery that would fit into a bottle cage or bag or you could go for a more elegant solution like the Terracycle battery mounting kit as mentioned in the Tongsheng section.
>Check out Recumbent Trikes and Bikes on eBay<
Is the Bafang motor reliable?
Bafang has been the market leader in DIY mid-drive e-bike conversion kits since 2014, and, like Tongsheng were plagued by early reliability issues – these mainly stemmed from poor quality MOSFETs in the motor controller.
These issues have been resolved, although as with any electric bike motor there are still long-term reliability concerns to think about. I have listed below the main problem areas I have encountered with the Bafang mid-drive:
- Electrical problems – particularly controller failure on the BBS02 48v 750w. This is less of a problem on the BBSHD and the 36v models.
- Not 100% waterproof, do not use a pressure washer or fully submerge – persistent riding in heavy rain, can on occasion cause problems.
- Primary nylon gear wearing out – this seems less of a problem than on the TSDZ2
- Hall sensors – sometimes a bad solder, or poor connection at the controller
- Pedal assist sensors can sometimes fail (although this seems quite rare).
It should be noted, that in my personal experience I have installed well over 100 Bafang mid-drives in the last three years, and I have had one 250w motor fail (after 14 months and 2000 miles), one controller failure on a 36v 500w, three controller failures, and one hall sensor failure on the BBSHD and eight BBS02 48v 750w controller failures. All the controller failures on the 750w version happened on bikes with 52v batteries fitted.
Conclusion
Despite the above problems, I still think the Bafang is a good motor. The BBS01B 250w will provide enough assistance for most riders, and if you fancy having a bit more power on tap for those steep climbs the BBS02 is excellent. The BBSHD is a very strong and efficient motor and gives you the flexibility of power ranging from 250w up to a potential 1700w. I wouldn’t personally install a BBSHD on a recumbent bike for myself, as I think having all that power available would be too tempting to use and I like to get a decent workout when I go riding.
Which mid-drive motor is best for a recumbent trike or bike?
This boils down to your preferences. For me, the TSDZ2 wins hands down, as it provides an enhanced riding experience and is a very neat installation. The Tongsheng provides a very fluid and intuitive pedal assist. The Bafang is also great and you have the added benefit of being able to easily configure the controller settings to suit your needs.
A lot of very experienced recumbent riders agree with my verdict on the Tongsheng, the following testimony is from one of my readers: Glen from Vancouver Island, Canada. Visit Glen’s website: mid-islandadventures.com – There is a wealth of information on his site for recumbent riders.
For those that are interested, I have just taken off my Bafang 36 volt/350-watt Mid Drive from my HP Gekko & replaced it with the TSDZ2 36 volt unit. I have had this TSDZ2 unit sitting in my shop for several months as it had been returned to me in need of repair. Since I had some free time on my hands I decided to open up the Tongsheng to see if I could figure out what was wrong. Since I had previously serviced this unit with new grease, and new Brass primary Gear, I suspected I had missed something or there was something faulty in the unit. It turns out a loose screw at one of the phase wire terminals had come loose & had been sparking inside the motor cover. Some emery cloth for cleaning up the Brass Terminals, a new screw, some Blue Loctite and a little JB Weld & that motor seems to be running well now,
As I had spent some time with the Bafang on my Gekko, I should be able to make a direct comparison between the two comparably powered motors. Same Trike, the same riding conditions, the same battery & weight & the same rider.
So here goes – Since my trike is equipped with an Alfine 11 speed out back my ride results may differ slightly from those with a cassette & derailleur.
The first big difference is in the smoothness of the power delivery. The TSDZ2 feels more like stepping on a Gas Pedal whereas the Bafang unit feels more like turning on a light switch. The Power is either ON or OFF.
Both units seem acceptably quiet in use & being on a Trike Boom right out in front of you may be something to consider. This is a TSDZ2 with the Brass Gear upgrade as well which some owners have reported as being noisy. I didn’t find it so but I do tend to either grease or oil anything that moves to be on the safe side. Coming from a Chinese factory I would recommend everyone to take off your covers before they have installed your motor kit of any brand & give it a going over. 12-hour shifts 7 days a week can mean some units just don’t get the final love & care they should.
One of my gripes with the Bafang is the time delay from when you stop pedalling & the motor finally stops applying power. In practice, this may only be 5 secs but when you stop pedalling to shift gears on an Internal Gear Hub it can feel like 10 secs between shifts. During that time you get the motor trying to bypass the braking or clutch on the IGH resulting in some added noise. With the TSDZ2 unit, the Power stops as soon as you stop pedalling. This can of course be eliminated with the use of gearshift sensors on the Bafang but NOT having to add even more cables or possible problem connections to the TSDZ2 is just another bonus.
Both units come with an LCD Control that seems pretty similar in function & information displayed. The Bafang unit seemed to be a nicer quality than the T unit but the T unit was more adjustable having a nice tilt feature should you be getting glare or the sun reflecting in your eyes. Another plus for the T unit is its lightweight & compact size weighing about 2 lbs less than the Bafang. It also installs without doing any damage to the Bottom Bracket Shell which does result in indentations from the locking ring with the Bafang.
So which is the better unit? For me, it would still be a Geared Hub Motor as my first choice since the Power is more direct to the road & not lose efficiency through your chain, back gears & then finally to the road. If I had to choose between the Bafang & The TSDZ2 it would be the TSDZ2 with 500 watts.
Screenshot of Mid-Island Adventures – click on the photo to be taken to the website.
Electric Rear Hub Motor Conversion Kit
A geared hub motor is one of the easiest ways to add electric assist to your recumbent. Not only are these motors very reliable, but there is no increase in pedalling resistance with the assist switched off (unlike the TSDZ2 and Bafang BBS).
Hub motors are also generally cheaper than mid-drives, plus you don’t need to lose your front crankset. Below is a video of an Ice Trike fitted with e-assist using a Bafang 36v 250w rear hub motor conversion kit.
Will a rear hub motor fit my recumbent?
This depends on several factors. If you have an internally geared rear hub like a Shimano Alfine or Rohloff then the answer would be no, unless you were willing to revert to derailleur gears.
The other thing to consider is the size of your rear wheel and the width of your dropouts. Most hub motor kits are available in 20″ / 26″ / 28″ wheel sizes but are nearly always made to fit the standard bicycle dropout width of 135mm. A slight variation on this should not pose too much of a problem, but if your rear dropout is substantially narrower, you would need to think about a crank motor. If you do not know the width of your rear dropout, remove your rear wheel and take the measurement using a tape measure of Vernier calliper.
✅The Ebikeling 500w 36v 26″ rear wheel conversion kit (US shipping)[/caption]
Pedal sensor compatibility can be an issue. Most of these kits come as standard for fitting on the right-hand side of a square tapered sealed cartridge bottom bracket. If you have a Hollowtech II, SRAM GPX or BB30 Pressfit bottom bracket you will need to order a compatible pedal sensor.
It is also likely that you may need to extend the cable going from the pedal sensor on the crank to the controller box/bag.
The Benefits of fitting an electric hub motor to a recumbent
- Ease of installation – you just need to swap out your rear wheel and fit the pedal sensor, battery, motor controller and display.
- Cost – hub motor conversion kits are nearly always cheaper
- Simplicity – If hub motors do go wrong (which is quite rare) they are easy and cheap to repair or replace.
- If you use derailleur gears you get to keep your full range of gears – e.g. triple on front 8/9 speed at the rear.
Negatives to fitting a rear hub motor
- Rear hub motors do not produce as much torque as crank motors (40Nm vs 80Nm).
- Repairing rear wheel punctures can be time-consuming – fit Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres.
- Not compatible with all recumbent dropouts
- Hub motors are not as efficient as crank motors – reduced battery range.
Riding a recumbent fitted with a rear hub motor
I have installed a couple of Bafang rear hub motors on a recumbent bike and trike and I think they work great. Indeed, they don’t produce the torque you get with a crank motor, but the assist is more than adequate in my opinion. I live at the bottom of a 0.2 miles 8-10% hill and my personal best on my road bike (unassisted) is 1 min 20 secs, on a 250w Bafang powered Ice Trike I did the same climb in 1 min 13 secs, and that was without getting too out of breath!
Most of the rear hub motor kits available use the cadence-based pedal assist, much like the Bafang mid-drive motor. There are hub drive systems available which use a torque sensing pedal assist to produce a smoother more efficient level of assistance much like the Tongsheng motor.
The main issue with fitting a torque-sensing hub motor kit is you will need to remove your existing bottom bracket to replace it with the torque-sensing one. You will also need to drill a hole in your bottom bracket shell to thread through the connector lead to the controller – you must fit a rubber grommet into this hole beforehand because if you don’t it is very likely you will damage the connector lead when threading through the hole. You will also need to get a compatible extension lead for the torque sensor connector as the one supplied with the kit is not long enough for a recumbent.
Conclusion
The age-old question of is a hub motor better than a mid-drive or visa-versa boils down to your expectations of what you want from electric assist. Personally, I think hub motors are great, they lack the torque and efficiency of a crank motor, but they still do the job of providing electric assistance very well. The other plus point is the lack of drag at the wheel (and crank) when pedalling with the assist switched off.
The main selling point of any hub motor would be its long-term reliability. I have installed a lot of geared hub motors over the last three years, and I haven’t had one single reported motor or controller failure. I have had some minor problems like pedal assist sensors playing up and occasional issues with the display. But apart from that, the motors themselves are excellent.
I wouldn’t hesitate to take a hub motor-powered recumbent on a 1000-mile tour!
Links to rear hub motor kits
Buy the Ebikeling 500w 36v 26″ rear wheel conversion kit (20″ also available)
| Amazon |
| eBay |
| Aliexpress |
| Compare the Latest Prices on ebikepricecomparison.com |
Thanks for reading, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below. I usually reply within 24hrs.
Hi Tony, I purchased a recumbent trike for my husband so he could have outside mobility after his stroke. We used to go on 30-60 mile bike weekends. He now rides this bike 2-3 miles each day. Would the addition of the electric motor help us eventually return to longer bike rides? The trike I found for him is designed by Easy Racers, Inc. It has Sun X-3 on the front. It has 21 gears and the 2 larger wheels are in the back and the smaller wheel in the front. I could send you a picture via email if that would help. I would like to know it this would help him, give him more freedom without wearing him out, and what type would be best for his type of trike?
Thank you,
Joye
Hi Joyce,
I’ve been on the website, is it the Sunseeker X3-AX? If that is the correct trike the best motor would most likely be a Bafang mid-drive. The Tongsheng would be tricky to fit due to the cable routing on the trike, but the Bafang will have more clearance.
A Bafang BBS02B 48v 500w or 750w would be the best option with 48v 17.5Ah or 20Ah battery for a decent range. A Terracycle battery mount would be useful for mounting the battery out of the way – you would need to get the right one for the diameter of your frame tubing.
The Bafang BBS02B should provide more than enough power. The good thing with this motor is you have 9 incremented levels of pedal assist, so the rider can fine-tune the assist to suit their needs.
I hope this helps, if you have any more questions please let me know.
All the best,
Tony
Greetings Tony…
I certainly enjoy the ebikechoices website…interesting, informative and genuinely honest opinion. I am contacting you, requesting recumbent trike e-conversion information.
I have an ICE T, 10+ y/o, first series production which replaced the Explorer. I had a Trice Explorer, then switched to an XL, added a 14 spd Rohloff internal, then wanted another Explorer, however, too late and bought the T. I’ve recently converted it to a 26” rear wheel with suspension.
I am now 70 y/o with arthritis and it’s time for pedal assist, therefore desire to install a TSDZ2, 500W, 48V. I would truly appreciate your assistance with detailing a list of items to purchase for the conversion. Purchase will be from one of the companies named on your website. A good friend of mine is a hand-built frame craftsman and will assist with installation.
I would truly appreciate your assistance and recommendations.
All the best…
Kelly Green
Urbandale, IA
USA
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for your positive comments. I have listed all the products below – I have used these items on several Ice Trike TSDZ2 conversions.
T-Cycles battery mounting plate
Tongsheng TSDZ2 48v 500w
48v 20Ah Battery from UPP – I have purchased over 100 batteries from this company and have always been very pleased with their reliability and after-sales service.
Tongsheng TSDZ2 speed sensor extension lead
P-Clip 38mm – for securing the motor to the boom, you will also need an M8 nut and bolt.
Minora accessory mount – makes mounting the display easier on the end of the handlebar.
I think that’s everything. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
All the best,
Tony
Hello Tony…
I certainly appreciate your prompt response and assistance. I’ll get to ordering items and if I desire additional information, I will not hesitate to contact you.
All the best…kg
You’re welcome?
Hello Tony…
I am purchasing items for my conversion and the 48v 20ah UPP battery you recommended is out of stock. Do you have another recommendation? Also, do you have an opinion regarding the two displays which are available?
I certainly appreciate your assistance!
Best regards…kg
Hi Kelly,
There doesn’t seem to be any other options from eBay or Amazon as they’re all shipping from China. You would be best to try someone like Luna Cycles or California e-bikes. Regarding the displays I prefer the VLCD6 for the TSDZ2 although this only displays in Km/h. The LCD5 is fine and has more functionality plus it also displays speed in MPH.
I hope this helps, let me know if you need any more info.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi…
Thank you, I certainly appreciate your assistance!
Roll on…kg
You’re welcome?
Hi Tony, I had bought a 48V BBS02 a couple years ago and never got around to trying to install it. I was thinking of putting it on a Bike’ Tandem. I see from your other comments that this won’t work because this Bike’ is left mount.
What do you think about a rear hub on it instead? We are moving to a pretty flat area in AZ, so I don’t envision needing the steep hill climbing ability of a mid mount. Would the other parts bought with the BBSO2 Kit work with their rear hub?
I had also had bought a 48V 15AH battery at the time.
I might just put this whole setup on a different bike, or sell it, if something entirely different would be better. Right now I am just looking for something as an alternative to the golf carts everyone else rides around here in our 55 plus community to get to tennis, etc. I am thinking some peddle assist on this tandem which never used much may fit the bill. It was always too much work for wife and I to enjoyably peddle due to it’s weight.
Hi Ron,
A 48v 500w hub motor would do the job, although if you’re fitting to the rear wheel you will want to mount the motor controller mid-point on the bike (so the respective leads can reach). You will need to mount the display on the front handlebar and pedal sensor on the front crank. I’ve converted tandems in the past but have usually fitted front hub motors to keep things simple. Here is a link to a Bafang 48v 500w rear hub motor kit on Amazon – the rim doesn’t look like it has a machined braking surface so if your tandem uses rim brakes you will need an appropriate rim.
If you have any more questions, please let me know.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony, great blog and thanks for the response!
Mine is a “Bike'” brand recumbent tandem. The rear wheel is 20″. Yes it is caliper rim breaks so I would need a wheel that would work with it.
I don’t think I need a kit, since I have the kit from BBSO2, correct? Or would the hub take a different controller/display etc?
Would I buy something like this with my own wheel?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IKTL4GG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3063PLKK9YWLG&psc=1
also confused between the one above and this also from the same seller,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVGHC45/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3063PLKK9YWLG&psc=1
Why would this last product also ask for wheel size since even in the answers it says it is the motor only? Seems like this one might come with a wheel?
Also not sure what I need between cassette or freewheel?
Hi Ron,
You will need to buy a full kit with separate controller and display as the Bafang BBS02 controller is integrated into the motor and there can be cross compatibility issues with the displays.
Regarding the type of motor this really depends on the gear set-up on your tandem. If it’s 6 or 7 speed at the back then it’s likely to be a screw-on freewheel and if it’s 8 speed and above then it would be a cassette although you can get 7-speed cassettes on older bikes (mainly from the 90’s).
You can buy the hub motor kits (not laced into a rim) and get the motor laced into your existing rim – unless you’ve done this before I would definitely recommend you get it done by an experienced wheel builder.
Not too sure why the seller in the link is asking for wheel size unless they’re supplying a rim – I’m not aware of Bafang making a different motor for a 20″ wheel.
I hope this helps.
All the best,
Tony
Thanks for all the info you make available – much appreciated.
I have an Ice Sprint FS which I have had for about 7 years, and done several thousand kms. Now my legs and muscles are seven years older and needing some help. I was looking seriously at the Bafung mid drive motors until I read your suggestions, and now tempted towards a hub motor. I am not sure if you measure the wheel size over the tyres, or just the rims – mine are 16″ diameter over the rims, and so far I cannot find any motors with wheels of this size. Am I missing something?
I live in Spain and it is near enough impossible to buy stuff in the UK now, so I need to buy elsewhere.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, and again, many thanks for your fantastic help
Hi John,
All the Ice Trikes I’ve converted in the past have had a 26″ rear wheel or 20″ wheels. 16″ would be too small. The easiest way is to check the tyre size for the rear. Cycling UK have a metric to imperial conversion chart for tyre sizes.
The Tongsheng TSDZ2 is the most popular kit I’ve fitted to Ice Trikes and although I haven’t been made aware of any issues, this motor does seem to require more maintenance in the long-term whereas hub motors are more or less fit and forget (plus you get to keep the triple chainset).
Here is a link to a suitable hub motor kit on Amazon.es that is available in 20″ and 26″ wheel sizes. Battery choice will be dependent on how much range you need but a good starting point are Green Cell batteries – here is a link to a 36v 12Ah.
I hope this helps, if you need any more advice, please let me know.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony,
Thanks for taking the time to reply, especially as it is the weekend!!
I am afraid to say I am still concerned about the wheel size. It would be a diaster to order a wheel and motor and then find it will not fit.
I too thought the Ice Trike had 20 inch wheels, and the tyres I am running, Schwalbe Tryker say that they are 40-406 (20×1.50). However, putting a tape measure across the wheels, they are nowhere near 20″ diameter – closer to 16″ If I measure from the ground, to the top of the tyre, across the centre, the measurement is 1 foot 7 inches – ie 19 inches. Rim to rim they are 16 inches. So this is a total puzzle to me. Would it be possible for you to measure a supposed 20″ wheel that you fitted and see what diameter it really is??
If I resort back to the original idea of fitting a mid drive motor, what is the biggest that I should fit not to risk structural failure? I am aware of the legal limits on public roads. I have a trailer and used to take dog for outings and would like to do that again, without risk of burning out a motor that is too small.
Thanks again for your amazing efforts.
Regards and thanks, John
Hi John,
That’s definitely a 20″ wheel size. I don’t have a trike here at the moment to double check, but I’d be very surprised if it was a non-standard rim diameter.
I really like the TSDZ2 but it is a small motor and I’ve heard of reliability issues when towing extra weight (overheating), the 48v 500w version would be better but personally if it’s power you want and you’re not too bothered about the legal limit, the Bafang BBS02B 48v 750w is a cracking motor – the motor peak current is 25 amps, but if you were to buy a USB lead and download the free software you could limit the peak current to about 15A and have a very reliable and efficient motor which would run all day without any issues and get you up steep hills with minimal effort. You can still limit the max assist speed to 25km/h.
I’ve fitted the Bafang to an HP Velotechnik recumbent before and the extra weight at the front (4.2kg) was noticeable at first but you soon got used to it. You would need to fabricate a stabiliser bar to stop the motor pivoting in the bottom bracket as the mounting plate supplied doesn’t really do the job that well. The road legal 36v 250w BBS01B version can be reprogrammed to 18A, but the motor would be running near its limit (whereas the BBS02B at 15A would be well within its limit).
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony
Once again many thanks for such a speedy reply. I would rather run a bigger motor at half power than a little one flat out. I guess I am back at the Bafang being the front runner.
Really appreciate how generous you are with your help.
Cheers, John
You’re welcome?
Hi again Tony,
Will my Bafang 48v/17ah battery work with the Tongshen mid drive kit? The more I read the more appealing it seems.
Yes, you can use a 48v battery with the Tongsheng as long as you purchase a 48v mode – here is a link to the 48v 500w version.
Cheers,
Tony
Very cool. Very cool. I’m encouraged where before I’d nearly given up. I thought I had pissed away more money than I could afford anyway and now I have a good battery, a good trike AND my small, but excellent neighborhood bike shop owner has indicated he may be willing to help me. So today I order the Tongshen 48v/500w. Do I need to mention you to get you your affiliation fee? Can I buy you a Starbucks gift card?
Thank you again Tony
Hi Rick,
You’re welcome, glad you’ve got something sorted. No need to mention me for the affiliate commission, it’s all done through the link, but thanks anyway. A Starbucks gift card would be great, my email is cycletek@outlook.com (I’m in the UK).
Let me know how it all goes and feel free to send me some photos of your finished trike and I’ll post them on this article.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony,
Thank you so much for being available and willing to help. I only wish I’d found you a month ago. How I ended up here is another story, but I’m here so if you will help I will be very grateful.
1) own a HP Gekko 26 2017 model x 5 years
2) wanted to convert to rear hub that freewheeled when not-engaged (?geared)
3) told there isn’t a rear wheel hub motor—actually I think the vendor said “we don’t sell a rear hub motor” & I heard there isn’t one
4) after not enuf research bought a Bafang 48v 750 W mid-drive kit with 17 ah battery.
5) following directions I spent hours neatly installing. It worked at first, but kept dropping connection—first it was front battery to motor connection-came loose. Then it was 2nd battery motor connection same thing. Got to ride about 2 miles under level 1 power. Then off again BUT it was enuf to show me I didn’t like the on—off PAS system. Like you I want to preserve the ability to get a work out & I didn’t understand all PAS systems weren’t like torque sensor systems. Nor did I know there is a rear hub motor like I want.
6) I couldn’t solve the power issue on what I had & was frustrated too so I took it all apart
7) HELP request = what now? Will my new Bafang branded battery work with a rear hub system? If so, and if a 26 “ rear hub motor will fit, then I reinstall the front bottom bracket, chainrings and shifter, and buy the new kit? Maybe try to sell the 750 watt mid drive motor-I also discovered I don’t want that much power. It was fun building up this kit until I got stuck and couldn’t find the problem—I’m not an electronics DIY
Thank you very much in advance for your help. Our local e-bike shop won’t help even if you buy the kit from them. They say they’re too busy and they would charge full retail for the kit anyway. Not blaming them, but there isn’t any local help I could find
With
Hi Rick,
Your 48v battery will work with a 48v Bafang hub motor without any issues. The rear drop-outs of your HP Gekko should be 135mm, the motor hub axle in slightly wider than this (but only by a few mm).
The Bafang motor freewheels fine when not in use, and you can pedal without any extra drag from the motor. The pedal assist is still going to have quite an on/off feeling, but if you purchase a kit with a KT-LCD3 display you can alter the pedal assist parameters using the advanced settings menu.
Your Bafang BBS02 is probably rotating in the bottom bracket shell, that’s what is probably causing the battery connectors to come unplugged. You would need to fabricate a stabiliser bar that you could mount from the motor to the boom to prevent the motor pivoting.
It is quite straightforward to re-configure the pedal assist parameters on the mid-drive, using a USB programming lead and the open-source Bafang config software. You can limit the maximum power, start current and various other parameters to make the assist very smooth and progressive.
I hope this helps, if you need any more info or links, let me know.
All the best,
Tony
Thank you very much. Very informative. Initially I did install the power cord w/o any slack so you hit on the first problem. I added an extension the second time around with some built in slack and taped the connections, but it still disconnected. I wondered why there was no anti-rotational fixation
As u can see from my latest post I’m also considering the Tongshen because of its torque sensor feature. Would it be less “on/offy “ than the bafang hub motor. I didn’t like that. Also the Tongshen sounds like a little simpler installation, e.g. no need for ebrakes. And it has anti-rotational stabilization, no?
Hi Rick,
Yes, in my opinion the TSDZ2 is much better suited to recumbent trikes / bikes. I’ve installed more Tongsheng motors than any other (on recumbents) and there is a fixing point on the motor – you will need to measure diameter of your boom and buy a suitable steel p-clip. You need a short 8mm Allen or hex bolt which will go through the p-clip into the mounting point on the motor. On the Ice Trike it’s usually 38mm, but it may differ between brands.
The Tongsheng feels much more like a Bosch or Shimano Steps – the assist is very intuitive and reactive to rider pedalling input. It’s also much more energy efficient than the Bafang.
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony, Thank you for the wealth of information you have shared. I want to install this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R9J3P3Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AF0FBM1E362GS&psc=1
onto my wife’s catrike villager. I getting the motor already mated to the 20 inch wheel. My questions are, 1) do I need to get a torque sensor (something that was mentioned in an earlier thread). 2) do you have a link to the extension cable you’ve referred to for the pedal sensor (so that I can make sure I’m buying the correct one). 3) Will we be able to keep the same brake handle set up (the bike has mechanical disc brakes and my wife likes the brake lock feature on each so to keep the bike from moving when getting on and off the trike. 4) How big of a project is this conversion. I’m a guy who take his bike to the local bike shop for a tune up (the local bike shop said the should be able to do the conversion for us but if any parts are missing, since they are not a distributer for the Bafang company, I’d have to go looking for parts.
Hi Ben,
I’ve just been on the Catrike website and the latest model of the Villager has an external cup bearing bottom bracket – if yours is the same you will need a different pedal assist sensor like this one. You won’t need a torque sensor with the Bafang kit as it uses a pedal sensor.
Regarding the PAS extension lead, there’s usually enough length available in the sensor lead if you don’t mount the controller too far back. I couldn’t find one on Amazon or eBay, but there is a company in Spain who sell them – here is a link.
If you need to retain your existing brake set-up but want to use brake cut-offs – these inline cut-off sensors will do the job.
The installation is fairly straightforward if you’ve got the space and correct tools – it usually takes me 3-4 hours but you should allow yourself a whole day to do the job properly.
I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, let me know.
Regards,
Tony
I would like to see this question answered as I’ve bought the Bafang BBSHD for My Catrike Villager.
If you’re fitting a BBSHD the motor should fit into the bottom bracket without any issues. You may need to get a speed sensor extension lead, but you should be okay for the main wiring harness as there’s usually plenty of length.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi Tony,
I have been enjoying with tongsheng 36v 500w as installed on ICE recumbent trike. However, I am thinking of upgrade for more power and speed. My concern is whether 48w 750w produces more power and speed than 36v 500w while their specification shows same torque, 80 N.m maximaum for every model available in Aliexpress.
Your comment will be appreciated.
Kim
Hi Kim,
I have ridden both the 36v 500w and the 48v 750w and in my opinion, the difference is marginal. I would say the 48v version does feel like it has more torque which is noticeable when climbing steep hills of 10-15% gradient and above. I believe the latest version 48v has a maximum motor rpm of 4500rpm vs 4000rpm for the 36v. Also the 48v requires less current to produce the equivalent power to the 36v version, so it should run cooler on the long climbs. I haven’t seen any proper scientific tests measuring the torque of the 750w, but I would assume it should be more around the 100Nm mark.
Kind regards
Tony
Impressive Thanks for the post
You’re welcome?
Good morning. I currently have a ICE Adventure RS/26 that I have installed a BBSHD/52v system on Jan.2020. I have ridden this trike for 4000 miles this year. I have installed two 52v batteries which typically in PAS levels 3 – 4 will give me 60 plus miles on one 17.5Ah battery. What I would like to do in my initial research is to convert my 08 ICE Trice T/NT to a rear hub motor system so I can retain its triple chainring and cassette. I have reached out to Bafang asking about the new H640 rear hub. I am wanting to retain the 52v battery system (so I don’t have to buy more in a different voltage), as well as set the Trice with dual battery mounts. Not sure about controllers (need water resistance) here in the Pacific NW and was also thinking of using the smaller 500c display along with T-Cycles accessories for mounting. I build my own wheels and want to leave the Trice in the 20″ rear wheel (non-fat) configuration. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as I start down this path.
Hi Kit,
As far as I know, any 48v Bafang hub motor will be able to handle a 52v battery. I have installed a few 48v 500w CST rear hub motors and run them with 52v batteries without any long-term issues.
The new H640 looks like a great hub motor, but I’m having trouble finding a supplier in the US, Europe or Aliexpress – it’s quite possible it will only be available to the trade. I would go with a regular 48v Bafang CST motor, these have been proven to be quite durable up to about 1500w max. Regarding waterproof controllers, I’m not aware of any that are specifically waterproof. Maybe showerproof to an extent, but not for a prolonged amount of time. I would get a controller that uses the circular higo connectors and maybe get a waterproof bag or controller box. Most KT series and other controllers that are rated at 48v will comfortably handle a 52v battery fully charged. I would go with a 48v 22A controller that way your peak power draw will be 1293w (58.8v x 22A) which is well within the safety parameters of the CST motor.
I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, please let me know.
Cheers,
Tony
Tony,
Thanks. I delved into the internet and what a confusing bunch of motors, kits, etc. Is there a specific link to the 48v Bafang CST hub motor with cassette? Found most were for fat tire setups, which I do not need. Likewise a recommended link to controllers. What other parts would be necessary for this conversion? I’ve seen several mentions of torque sensor bottom bracket attachments which require drilling into the bottom bracket as well as sensor attachments to the bottom bracket.
Thanks for helping as I head into this adventure.
Thanks Tony
As I keep delving into this little project, I had previously reached out to Greenergia concerning the 48v system and using 52v batteries. Here is some of their responses which are a bit contrary to both your observations as well as BafangUSA and another e-bike forum:
New message from: greenergia-motor Top Rated Seller(270Turquoise Star)
Hello,however if you use the battery over voltage than the motor, it will hurt the controller. We don’t suggest to do that.
Reply
Your previous message
Thank you for your quick response. As I looked over the ad again, I see that all of the displays have the user defined option of using 48, 50 or 60v in setting up the displays.
greenergia-motor:
No,the 48V motor should use with the 48V battery.
Your previous message
I currently have 52V shark batteries with the newer 5 prong base. Will this system as a 48v be compatible with my current shark batteries and mounts.
Hi Kit,
I’ve used Greenergia a couple of times in the past without any issues. I think they may have a fulfilment warehouse in the US as well.
I understand where they’re coming from regarding the max voltage capacity of the controllers. It’s more to cover themselves against potential returns. The only motor I’ve noticed a decrease in reliability by using a 52v battery is the Bafang BBS02 48v 750w. I’ve fitted about a dozen Bafang 48v CST hub motors with 48v 22A KT series controllers and 52v batteries without any problems, but I would imagine other brands of controller may not have the tolerances the the slightly higher voltage. In my experience the KT seems to be one of the more dependable controllers on the market.
Regarding a torque sensor, there is a company on Aliexpress who I’ve dealt with before called Eunorau – here is a link to one of their products. I believe the hub motors they use are either MXUS or Shengyi – which are both of similar design and quality to Bafang.
Fitting a torque sensing bottom bracket can be a bit tricky, the main thing to remember is to insert a rubber grommet into the hole drilled for the wiring (in the BB shell. The wiring used has a very poor coating and it’s easy to damage this when threading the lead through the hole in the BB. It might be worth contacting California ebikes as they used to sell a whole range of torque-sensing bottom brackets.
I don’t see any problem using the 5-pronged battery as the power lead will usually be the same positive/negative with either an Anderson, XT90 or male/female bullet connector.
All the best,
Tony
Tony,
Thanks so much for your input. I’ve ordered a 500w CST which should be here within the week and will lace it up to a new rim. Just received an answer from ICE Trikes when I inquired about the frame offset as well as mentioned the CST. They responded that their frames are only designed to handle 250 motors and anything larger could have a long term impact on the rear section and potential failure. Not sure if this is more of a manufacturer concern re: potential failure or a reality factor. Also, in talking with Greenergia, they have a sourcing for the new BaFang H640 motor and am waiting for pricing.
Kit
Hi Kit,
No worries, glad to have helped. Regarding Ice Trikes response, I think it must be more of a ‘potential failure’ concern. One of my customers purchased a used Ice from eBay and that had a very heavy 1500w direct drive rear hub motor fitted – previous owner claimed to have covered several thousand miles on it without issue. As far as the extra weight factor is concerned, the 48v CST motor is only marginally heavier than the 36v 250w Bafang hub motor.
Let me know how the conversion goes, and if you have any further questions, give me a shout.
Cheers,
Tony
Good morning. Reached out to Greenergia and they advise the H640 is going to be available in the near future and will keep me posted about the pricing. I had also reached out to ICE Trikes and asked about the frame offset (for wheel building) and mentioned mounting a hub drive.
They responded that their trikes (all models) were designed only for 250 hub motors. I am guessing both from a manufacturers CYA as well as that most if not all models have aluminum rear sections.
Also finally located a waterproof 30amp controller (EBIKELING) on Amazon which is equipped with BaFang connectors. Price was very reasonable @ 49.99 and thought this might be a bit better for the 52v batteries instead of the 22amp. Thoughts?
Thanks again for this forum, its really helped in both your answers and reviewing all the past comments, advice given.
Kit
Hi Kit,
Ebikeling kit is usually good quality. I believe they’re based in Illinois and their customer service is decent. The only potential issues I can see is that if you run the motor at full power with a 52v battery, you’ll be pulling about 1560w at peak (or 1764w at a full charge of 58.8v). As long as you don’t use it in full power mode for a prolonged amount of time you should be just fine.
I can confirm the Ice has an alloy rear sub-frame, still a bit confused about whether they mean the dropout spacing or the actual power stress. In my experience, most hub motors are 135mm rear spacing and there’s not a massive difference in weight between the 36v (250w) and 48v Bafang motors. If anything the H640 will be marginally lighter than current/older motors.
All the best,
Tony
Good morning Tony!
I again want to thank you for the help/advice/suggestions on doing this hub motor build.
One additional question arose, and that is will a shift sensor be needed for the hub motor like used on the BBSHD motors? Haven’t been able to find a definitive answers since everything so far just points back to the BB motor series. I am guessing it won’t be needed when I will be retaining the chainring/cassette system, but…..
I’ve reached out to Ebikeling.com concerning their 48v/1200w/30A controller for use with my 500w motor, but haven’t gotten a response yet. Seems it would be a better choice than the Greeneria 18Ah controller when using the 52v/17.5Ah batteries.
Thanks
Kit
Hi Kit,
No need for a shift sensor as the power is generated at the rear wheel hub and not transferred via a crank motor through the drivetrain.
I reckon the Ebikeling controller should do the job, I would just exercise caution and not use it in full power mode for long periods of time.
Regards,
Tony
I need help and am seeking advice. I have installed a 2022 Bafang BBSHD on a customers 2012 ICE Adventure Recumbent Trike. Something either about the motor or (?) Is definitely chewing up the voltage on the batteries. I have had another mechanic check everything. Displays are correctly set to the wheel sizes and to 9 PAS. The motor spins very fast, and it only takes a minute amount of movement on the crank arms and its off to the races so much so, sometimes I cannot pedal that fast to keep up. I end up in the 11t cog just to get some resistance in the pedals. Both trikes are identical in all aspects except the 2012 has 20” wheels all around, where the 2015 has a 26” rear wheel.
BBSHD Mid Drive 1000w motors
42T chainring
11-34T Cassettes
KMC E9e Chain
SRAM X9 Derailleurs
SRAM X0 Rear Shifter
Now both have DPC18 Displays
SRAM DDIII 3 speed IGH
Schwalbe Marathon tires
Bafang Brake lever sensors
Bafang Speed Sensors
Bafang Shift Sensors
170mm Crankarms
Essentially I am only getting approx, 30 miles out of a fully charged battery and running at only PAS 2 of 9. I attempted to check out PAS 3 – 5 but the trike automatically jumps to approx. 16.5 + mph and in level 4 its around 20 – 22 mph. Those are not bad speeds, but I could not/cannot get any resistance levels to pedaling and literally just have to move the crank arms and the trike maintains those speeds and the voltage level drops hard and into the red or nearing the BMS cutoff.
Here are the test results for 2012 recumbent trike with 20″ rear wheel on several different rides.
14.5Ah Battery
PAS 2 (860C Display)
Ride #1: 34.38 miles
17.5Ah Battery (2) rides
PAS 2
Ride #1: 32.11 miles (860C Display)
Ride #2: 34.28 miles (DPC18 Display)
This is what I get/have gotten on the 2015 Recumbent Trike that has ALL the same equipment except it has the 26″ rear wheel for different rides. These are not all the tests I did in 2020 when I installed the BBSHD on the trike. This shows the kind of mileage I have been getting out of the batteries as the different PAS levels. I currently average 50-60 miles on PAS 4 with either battery.
14.5Ah Battery:
PAS 1 = 83.58 miles
PAS 3 = 82.32 miles
PAS 5 = 38.40 miles
PAS 3 = 78.20 miles
PAS 4 = 47.33 miles
PAS 4 = 51.31 miles
PAS 3 = 80.09 miles
17.5Ah Battery:
PAS 2 = 168.78 miles
PAS 4 = 59.23 miles
PAS 6 = 38.67 miles
PAS 3 = 65.16 miles
PAS 3 = 83.93 miles
PAS 3 = 87.21 miles
PAS 3 = 80.09 miles
PAS 4 = 57.13 miles
Hi Kit,
Have you had a chance to check the controller settings using the open source software? It sounds like the PAS settings are set too high. There seems to be inconsistencies in how BBSHD’s are configured when they leave the factory and I have had several in the past that were producing much more power in the low assist modes (500w+).
Also, it’s possible other parameters like ‘start current’, ‘slow start mode’ and ‘start degree signal’ are set too high. I would check out the detailed Bafang BBSHD programming guide over at electricbike-blog.com
Please let me know if this solves the problem.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony,
I must have referred to your article 20 tomes on the last few days. Hopefully you’ll get credit for some of the items I ordered as I normally started by accessing through the links in your article. I have an ICE Adventure HD. I eventually elected to order the Bafang 500W 48V Hub drive. My Ice is a 30 Speed.. triple with 10 speed cassette
My one question is will I be able to use that cassette. The kit instructions state 9 speed or less.
Hi Greg,
If you’ve ordered the Bafang with the cassette freehub, then it should take a 10 speed cassette. I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, let me know.
Cheers,
Tony