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Since its release in 2015, the Bafang BBSHD 1000w electric bike kit has proven to be very popular among DIY e-bike enthusiasts. But does it live up to all the hype? This Bafang BBSHD review is based on my experience installing these motors on numerous bikes. Find out more about my electric bike conversion service.
There have been some interesting developments recently regarding e-bike conversion kits. Still, the Bafang BBSHD continues to be one of the most popular plug-and-play mid-drive motors available in 2023. It can be incredibly reliable over the long term; indeed, I have customers with over 8,000 miles on their motors and still going strong. If you’re looking for an e-bike motor that will enable your humble mountain bike to tackle any hill you can find, read on.
Pros
- Very powerful
- High torque output
- Smooth and quiet
- Durable
Cons
- Heavy
- Limited compatibility
- Poor chainline
Specifications
- Motor Position: Mid-Mounted – Bottom Bracket
- Motor Compatibility: 68-73mm BSA Threaded Bottom Bracket
- Rated Motor Power: 1000 watts
- Motor Peak Power: 1632-watts (48v) to 1764-watts (Peak Power with 52v Battery)
- Motor Torque:160Nm (Max)
- Motor Rated Voltage: 48-volts (52v Battery Optional)
- Controller Current: 30-amps
- Top Speed: 28-35 mph (Depends on Bike Gearing)
- Waterproof Rating: IP65
- Price: $350-$450
Summary
The Bafang BBSHD is the flagship mid-drive motor from Bafang. The motor stator is 66% larger than that of the BBS02 and runs at 130-150rpm vs 120rpm for the BBS02. The motor itself is physically larger and just under 1kg heavier, and it has external cooling fins that aid with heat dissipation. The motor controller uses 12 x INRFB 3077 MOSFETs, enabling the motor to handle the 30A continuous current. Power-wise, it can produce up to 160N.m of torque (compared with 120N.m for the o2).
The installation criteria are the same as with all Bafang mid-drives and are available in the classic 68mm-73mm bottom bracket fitment. There are also a couple of versions made specifically for the wider bottom brackets used on fat bikes (100mm or 120mm).
There is the potential to fit this kit to a full suspension mountain bike that uses a pressed-fit bottom bracket. However, you will need to purchase the correct shim adapter kit and motor stabiliser bar, or if you know a good engineer, you could get one fabricated.
What’s Included in the Bafang BBSHD Kit?
- The motor unit with integrated controller
- LCD Display
- Wiring loom
- Inner and outer lock-nuts
- Chainring
- Thumb throttle
- Brake levers with cut-off sensors (only compatible with cable brakes)
- Speed sensor and wheel magnet
- A bag of various Allen bolts and screws
Bafang BBSHD Installation
The installation of this motor is the same as other mid-drive motors. If you are looking for a nice, easy conversion to do yourself but you have little or no experience with bicycle mechanics or using tools, I would not recommend this kit. The installation will need to be carried out by someone fairly competent at general bicycle maintenance. Removing the bottom bracket on your bike can be a pain, and you will require a lot of patience! I have added a downloadable PDF manual that gives a rough idea of the installation process with photos.
Motor Power Output
The Bafang BBSHD 1000w produces considerably more torque than its smaller siblings, the controller will handle up to 30A of continuous current all day, and the motor internals are much more robust.
As with all the other Bafang mid-drive motors, this uses an internal cadence sensor and gives electric assist based on pedalling rpm. The pedal assist is very responsive, and with 9 power levels to choose from, you can fine-tune the power output to suit your ride.
The table below states the maximum possible power output for the 48v and 52v batteries.
| Bafang Motor | Battery | Peak Power |
|---|---|---|
| BBSHD | 48v (54.4v) x 30A | 1632w |
| BBSHD | 52v (58.8v) x 30A | 1764w |
The kit is supplied with a thumb throttle, so the bike can be used like an electric motorcycle if desired. These throttles are not particularly good for modulating the power and function more like an on/off switch. Reprogramming the controller can make the throttle more user-friendly. There are also aftermarket twist throttles available.
The firmware settings in the BBSHD controller can be re-configured with a suitable USB programming lead and software (which you can download for free). You should exercise caution, as some settings should be left alone. For more information on correctly programming a Bafang, the Endless Sphere forum is an excellent source of knowledge.
This motor uses the same principle as the other Bafang kits and drives the rear wheel directly through a single front chainring. Gear selection is always important to maintain maximum motor efficiency when hill climbing. Using a high gear on a very steep climb will place an unnecessary load on the controller and could potentially cause premature failure.
Bafang BBSHD Reliability
One of the main reasons I decided to do this review of the Bafang BBSHD is because I’ve installed these kits on mountain bikes that have all been used off-road and in testing conditions.
Out of the thirty kits I have installed, three controller failures and one hall sensor failure occurred. Generally speaking, this motor is reliable and seems to endure much abuse. Most installations I have carried out have used 52v batteries, which, when fully charged, are around 58.8v; this is very close to the motor controller’s maximum operating voltage of 60v. My only controller failures have been on bikes with a 52v battery fitted. I have never had any issues with the motors that used 48v batteries.
The motor still uses a nylon primary gear, that can degrade over time (particularly with heavy use). Replacements are easy enough to find, and there are plenty of good tutorials on YouTube for stripping this motor down.
Things to Consider When Fitting a Bafang BBSHD
- I would stick with a 48v battery, as the power gained by using a 52v battery is minimal and in my opinion, is not worth the risk.
- As with all of the Bafang motors, you will need a specific motor lock-ring spanner – the BBSHD is especially prone to coming loose in the bottom bracket due to the motor’s torque.
- The speed sensor can be easily knocked out of alignment with the wheel magnet – this will throw up an error code, and the pedal assist will stop working.
- Some colour displays can be unreliable – I find the black and white C965 display the most reliable, although the latest DP-C18 colour display is very good.
- I would recommend fitting a Bafang gearshift sensor, with potentially over 1600w going to the rear wheel; you will drastically shorten the service life of your rear derailleur, cassette and chain.
- A heavy-duty chain is recommended- much torque goes to the back wheel.
- If you plan to keep the bike long-term, stocking up on some spare parts may be worthwhile. Having a spare controller and a nylon primary gear is always useful.
Riding a Bafang-powered Electric Bike
The motor is very quiet and silky smooth, the first thing you notice when riding, is the amazing amount of torque it produces. I have ridden across a steep-sloped muddy field on a BBSHD-powered Fat Bike and the thing just kept on pulling like a train! I think it’s a bit too much power for a bicycle, but the great thing about these motors is that you can use them in a low assist mode like a normal bike, taking it nice and easy. The flip side is if you crank the power up to level 9, it feels like an electric motorcycle! You need to wear full protective clothing and a decent crash helmet when riding one of these off-road.
This kit comes as standard with a 46t steel chainring. This, in my opinion, is too higher gearing, especially if you are climbing lots of steep hills. There are however aftermarket chainrings available or a 104BCD chainring adapter.
One thing you will have to be aware of is if you do fit a smaller front chainring, the lowered gearing will make the bike prone to power wheelies, especially when hitting full throttle in a low gear on a steep hill start – I have had personal experience of this!
If you want to fit the brake levers with cut-off sensors, then bear in mind that these are only suitable for cable-operated brakes. I would only recommend installing this kit on a bike with decent hydraulic brakes. Because this motor is so powerful, I would recommend the hydraulic brake cut-off sensors or completely new hydraulic brakes with the sensors already built in.
The Verdict
The Bafang BBSHD is great fun! And although it is not without its faults, it is in my opinion one of the best e-bike conversion kits available. It is very powerful and should only be installed on a decent bike, with good brakes and suspension. It can only be legally ridden on private land (in certain countries) and should be treated with respect. It is without a doubt, great fun and is guaranteed to put a smile on your face!
Check out the Latest Bafang M625 Mid-Drive Conversion Kit
I have been as honest as possible in this review of the Bafang BBSHD, and despite some of the faults, it is a great electric bike conversion kit. As long as you can accept the potential long-term maintenance that will inevitably need to be carried out, it is an outstanding motor and well worth the money!
Thanks for reading. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below – I usually reply within 24hrs.
i recently had a 750w Bafang BBSHD conversion fitted to a pinnacle cobalt hybrid mountain bike ,but its been nothing but trouble ,no matter what we did we could not get the transmission on the bike to stop slipping and banging, the local bike shop changed the tourney rear mech to an altus shortened the chain and upgraded the freehub but it made no difference i am slightly over the rider weight for this motor it pulls ok but it constantly slips ,therefore i do not reccommend this motor and i am changing it for a powerfull hub motor instead,whether it is the bike cant take the 120NM torque i dont now the issue i have is not uncommon there are lots of posts about it online and after speaking to an electric bike dealer they too had issues with this motor .
changing the rear mech isn’t going to do anything if you don’t tune the cables. but it seems like your still having compatibility issues with the chain ring chain and gears spacing maybe your chain is a 7speed and your crank is a 10speed ect… it makes a difference
There is no 750 watt bbshd, you owned the BBS02 which is far less reliable
I had the slipping problem and used a sailboat threaded tensioner to bolt my motor to one of my water bottle bolts. No problem since.
Hi,
I use a BBS02B 750W motor and I put the simple aquarium termometer’s sensor on the inner surface of the controller, I don’t like to ride over 60 degrees Celsius.
What is the situation whith the BBSHD (48V 1000W)? Should I worry about the temperature of the mosfets in the controller? I will buy a BBSHD soon, to my second mountain bike.
I am interested to hear your opinion, from Hungary.
Best regards,
Sandor
Hi Sandor,
The BBSHD runs a lot cooler than the BBS02B. There’s a video somewhere on YouTube of a 300lb guy riding one up a long, steep climb in the US – they use a thermal scanner immediately after the climb and the motor is moderately warm. I find the BBSHD is much more reliable at 30A than the BBS02B at 25A (that’s why I usually knock the current back to 18A on the BBS02B). I’ve also had far fewer controller issues with the BBSHD when compared the the BBS02B.
Regards,
Tony
Dear Tony,
Thank for your answer.
I found a deal:
BBSHD kit, 52V 1000W, 500C, 46T, G320.1000 engine, from Germany to Hungary, 661 USD.
But I use 48V battery packs. May I re-program the engine from 52V to 48V?
The 48V kits are sold out.
Please advise me what to do?
Best regards,
Sandor
Hi Sandor,
You should be able to use either a 48v or 52v battery with the BBSHD. I’ve never come across a version that can only use a 52v. I would check with the seller, just to make sure.
Regards,
Tony
Hey friend!
So, I live in an area that gets lots of rain, and I’m hoping to eventually use this bike project to be my daily commuter. I’m concerned about how water resistant some of the components are, like the display screen, and if you reccomend any ways I can water proof things on it?
Hi Abigail,
In my experience, the BBSHD seems fairly water resistant. I used on over a British winter a few years back and never had any issues despite riding in heavy rain. I’m not so sure about the display as I used to cover mine in a clear plastic bag and hold it in place with an elastic band. Of the other owners I speak to regularly, riding in rain doesn’t seem to be a problem, but I would store the bike in the dry if it’s not being used.
The battery packs aren’t always as waterproof, but I think some manufacturers can now supply rain-proof covers.
Regards,
Tony
Awesome! Thanks Tony! ?
You’re welcome!
Can I use a 48V battery with the 52V BBSHD?
thansk
Yes, no problem. The Bafang BBSHD will take either a 48v or 52v battery.
I have the same question: BBSHD 52V engine may be used on 48V battery?
The low voltage cut off protection may not work properly.
The capacity icon in the display will show not real value.
Best regards,
Sandor
With the later C18 display, you can configure voltage 36v/48v/52v in the settings menu – the only issue I have found, is sometimes these settings are lost if the bike is not powered up for more than a couple of days.
Regards,
Tony
Thanks for this. Here are a number of overly specific questions if you’re willing to give them a go. I have a 2020 Raleigh Route 3 I’m looking to convert to a BBSHD, was thinking 52v, but you seem to think that increases maintenance issues. This is similar to the Giant Roam 0 so I’m thinking it oughta work (it says “sealed cartridge” on its specs for bottom bracket, which is the same as standard I believe). If the motor didn’t hit on the Giant, I suspect it won’t on the Raleigh. So, first question is, do you think that’s a good combo (mostly for everyday commuting)? Second, I’d like to tow a trailer and carry groceries and such, nothing too heavy. Can the BBSHD stand up to this? Third, how does it stand up to water and dust? I don’t mean immersion, but rain and splashes from puddles and possibly occasional mud and windblown dust or dusty roads. On this forum (https://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2016/05/25/recipe-for-a-badass-diy-electric-mountain-bike/) Chuck in Longmont CO says the Bafangs aren’t sealed well. He also suggests the motor wears out in 1500-3000 miles so is a lousy replacement for a regular commuter, which is what I’m going for. Finally, I live in Colorado, which has both big hills and big straight flats. I mainly commute on less extreme terrain, but might like something capable of getting up a big hill when the time comes. I was thus thinking of cutting the difference with the 42T. Thoughts? THANKS A TON (if you answer)!!!
Hi,
The Raleigh Route 3 will be an ideal donor bike for a BBSHD conversion. Regarding the battery, I’ve not had too many issues running a 52v as the BBSHD controller is generally more reliable and has better heat dissipation. Towing a trailer should be fine as long as you have suitable gearing for the steep climbs – the lower the better if possible. The Raleigh uses a Shimano Alivio 9-speed rear mech, you can use up to an 11-40 cassette with these (by adjusting the ‘b’ screw a couple of turns). It would also be worth getting a Lekkie Bling ring from Luna Cycle, something like a 42t would be an ideal compromise for hill climbing and still give you a top speed of around 30mph.
I haven’t had any reports of water ingress although it’s not unheard of. I would say they’re water resistant not 100% waterproof, I rode one through a very wet British winter and never had any problems. I think a lot of the issues reported are down to poorly seated seals on the motor and controller.
As far as reliability is concerned it’s very much down to luck. I have a customer who has done 5000 miles without problem, and another who’s controller packed up within a couple of weeks. I would say the motor itself is quite robust, it’s the electrics that tend to let it down. If reliability is an important factor I reckon something like an MAC hub motor would probably be a better bet.
Let me know if you need any more advice.
Cheers,
Tony
Thanks again Tony. Raleigh wrote me back and told me the bottom bracket is a square tapered JIS english threaded BB, 73mm bb shell. I just want to be sure whether I will need an adapter for that? I could print out Bafang’s diagram and insert it, but that’s a lot of work on a bike I use day to day.
Just to clarify, this is the one you recommend (https://lunacycle.com/lekkie-bling-ring-40-tooth-bbshd-package/)? Also, do you think I’ll need to upgrade the chain? Thanks!
Yes, your Raleigh has a standard BB shell so the Bafang should definitely fit without the need for adaptors. Regarding the chainring, I’ve always fitted the original Lekkie 42t – looks like Luna don’t sell that one anymore, but California ebike sell them – Here is the link. For the chain I usually use a Shimano HG-X 10-speed chain, I know these last well because the guy who’s done 5000 on his BBSHD conversion is only on his second chain. You could spend a bit more and go for a Connex ebike chain or a SRAM EX1 which are specifically designed for mid-drive e-bikes (albeit lower power than the Bafang).
I hope this helps.
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony,
The dealer installing my BBSHD on my stock Merida Big Nine 100 says due to the Hydraulic brake setup he cannot install brake sensors.
He will be installing a shift sensor though.
Perhaps I should purchase 1 trip wire and connect it to one brake input on the motors ebrake plug.
Your thoughts?
PS: love your advise so far on this website.
Hi Rob,
A simple motor cut-off button that installs on the handlebar and plugs into one of the brake connectors should do the job. You can purchase Bafang-specific cut-off button from Aliexpress. Another, more expensive option would be to buy complete hydraulic brakes with the cut-off sensors fitted.
According to the Merida Big Nine 100 specification it should have Shimano MT200 hydraulic brakes fitted – I’ve fitted the cut-off sensor blocks (with lever magnets) to these in the past without any issues.
Glad you like the site. If I can help you further, please let me know.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi, could you show a picture of your pic and possibly advise what battery you use for the frame?
Hi
If I’m fitting the bbshd to a freeride bike with an 83mm BB which kit do I use?
I’ve heard there’s a 92mm version but I don’t think I’ve ever seen it for sale. Only the 100mm version.
Regards
Buzz
Hi Buzz,
I’ve never come across a 92mm version before, only the 100mm. You should be okay fitting it to your Freeride, but you will need the appropriate amount of motor spacers so you can line up the mounting plate on the non-drive side. You will need an equal amount of spacers on both sides to prevent the q-factor from being offset. You may also need to get a stabiliser bar to prevent the motor from pivoting in the BB shell.
Regards,
Tony
Hi there. Thank you very much for a great review. I am actually very close to buying this kit but I have a few questions before I do.
I have bought a slightly used “Scott sub sport 30” https://tinyurl.com/yy29wclr
I will mostly be using this bike on flat roads with the hope of getting to my destinations as fast as possible (though I of course know it is not legal to use on public roads…)
– Chainring size:
Having previously owned a middrive speed pedelec (specialized turbo vado 6.0 – got stolen…) which had a 11 speed 11-46 cassette and a 48t chainring I found that you were almost always in the 11t cog when going fast.
Therefore I am considering installing the Lekkie Bling Ring 52t https://tinyurl.com/y6ghhfo9
Do you think the bigger chainring will give problems in regards to the motor or visa versa? Will it even fit standard frames?
-Battery:
Will buying a 48V battery give any edge in regards to reliability compared to buying a 52V battery and reducing the amps via software?
Wear:
My old ebike ate chains and cassettes for breakfast. I will try a full emersion wax approach this time around. Any tips for reducing wear?
Thank you for your time!
Best regards, Jon.
Hi Jon,
The Scott Sub Sport 30 will be an ideal donor bike, I have converted a very similar Scott in the past and it was quite straightforward.
Regarding chainring size, I don’t see any problems using a 52t front Lekkie chainring. The BBSHD puts out loads of power, even in the lower modes, so you should comfortably be able to maintain 25mph+ on flat roads. There shouldn’t be any problem with the chainring size as the Scott has a 48t large on the standard triple crankset, the only thing you may need to do is get a slightly longer chain.
I have found that both 48v and 52v batteries perform equally as well (in terms of reliability) with the BBSHD, the benefits of a 52v battery is the voltage will be slightly higher through the discharge cycle as the starting voltage will be 58.8v. There shouldn’t be any need to reduce the maximum current. I’ve found a lot of the latest BBSHD’s have the current set to 28A as standard.
Regarding chain and cassette, you probably want to get a KMC or Connex e-bike specific chain, and a good all-weather chain lube. One of my customers gets nearly 2k miles out of a Shimano HG-X – but this is for a 10-speed drivetrain so the chain profile would be slightly different for a 7-speed cassette.
I hope this helps, if you have any more questions, let me know.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony, me again.
So I’ve got the bbshd installed and running with a 48v 17.5Ah battery (samsung cells). I am running the current limit at 25A, and my current peak power off a fresh charged battery is about 1250watts (As read off the dpc18 display). My concern is when i reached about 47-48v, the max power output I could reach was 500w, which seems quite low for this setup. I understand there is voltage drop off, but even on my cheap 1000w hub motor, i still get 800-900w when the battery is nearly empty! My LVC is at 41/42v. Do you think the problem could be because the controller is set up for 52v battery?
Hi Jim,
The BBSHD controller will accept a 48v or 52v battery, so there maybe some other issue. Even at 48v the power output in full power mode should be 1200w (48v x 25A) a freshly charged 48v battery should be at 54.4v so peak power off a fresh battery should be more like 1360w. It might be worth checking the ‘keep current’ setting as if this is set too low, power will quickly reduce when pedalling cadence increases. I usually set it to at least 80%, but on some controllers it is set to 50% or lower. It sounds like one or more of the settings on the config software may be restricting power. I would check your settings against ‘Karls special sauce’ on electricbike-blog.com to see how they tally up.
Let me know how you get on.
Cheers,
Tony
Hi Tony,
Which BBSHD size did you use for the Carrera Vulcan please?
I realise now that asking Halfords for BB sizes was a red herring since they always quote sizes of 68-73 but the actual BB shell can be much much wider. Its hard because they just dont have the stock for me to physically inspect. I have a BBSHD on order that is probably the wrong size so I need to change it or cancel.
Kind Regards
Peter
Hi Peter,
The Carrera Vulcan has a 73mm BB, so the standard 68-73mm BBSHD will fit. You may need to purchase a couple of spacers as the chainstay angle on the Vulcan means the inner casing of the motor will be tight up to it. It’s also likely you will need to modify the rear gear cable routing guide (under the BB) as this can sometimes get in the way when inserting the motor. The only other issue I’ve come across with Vulcan’s is there is always enough thread (on the motor axle) to fully tighten the inner lock-ring, but the outer lock-ring will only just about fit and may require some locktite.
You will also need a good long breaker bar (1/2 inch) and Bottom bracket removal socket, as they don’t always grease the BB’s well during assembly.
Let me know if you need any more info.
Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony,
I see what you mean about the breaker bar! I managed to get the crank and ring out of one side, with penetrating chemicals and a breaker bar, but the other side is impossible so far. I genuinely feel sorry for the guys in Halfords that have to change the bottom brackets after a few years (or months so Ive heard) Ive taken rusted bolts off the bottom of cars easier than this.
Have you ever come accross a battery that will only charge to 66%? The new battery I ordered only seems to give me 3 green lights and the 4th stays red, plus the display screen says its only charged to 66%. Any thoughts please?
Thanks again
Peter
Hi Peter,
A fully charged 48v battery should read 54.4v on a multimeter or 58.8v for a 52v battery. If you have the DP-C18 display or P850c display you need to change the battery voltage in the settings menu to ‘UBE’. If you have a multimeter or you have a friend who has one, you need to check the voltage at the battery terminals. If you’ve left it on charge until the charger LED light goes green, then it should be at 100%. There could be a fault with either the charger, the battery management system (CPU inside the battery) or possibly a faulty lithium cell.
Let me know how it goes.
Regards,
Tony
Thanks Tony,
Good to know, I think I was just over 54v so sounds like everything is OK. I did about 25 miles just now without much pedalling and I was still well above 40v so seems OK to me.
I will try and change the setting, I cant find UBE, but I already had it set to Volts.
Thanks for all of your help.
Kind Regards
Peter
Hi Peter,
Sounds like everything is okay, the UBE battery setting is under battery voltage in the advanced settings menu (on the DP-C18 and P850c), there’s a couple of PDF user manuals under the ‘resources’ tab on the menu.
All the best,
Tony