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Hello and welcome to my Bafang BBS02 forum / message board. The questions and answers below have been gathered from the main BBS02 article over the last few years. I have recently updated and re-published the article and I didn’t want to discard the hundreds of useful Q and A’s posted by readers.
This isn’t a forum in the classic sense, it’s more like a message board where you can post a question and hopefully receive an answer. I have kept it simple by not requiring any kind of registration to post. But, all comments are held in moderation before being approved. This means that it may take up to 24 hrs for your message to be displayed. This is an unfortunate necessity due to the high levels of spam.
Because I am using the native comments feature on this website, there will not be any notifications of replies to posts. You will need to check back periodically.
Forum Topics
Below, I have listed some of the most popular topics discussed. Please keep all questions relevant to the Bafang BBS01 / BBS02 / BBSHD. I will always try and personally answer messages, but occasionally it may relate to a problem I haven’t encountered before.
- Compatibility: e.g. will the Bafang BBS02 fit a certain type of bicycle
- Installation issues: Problems with the installation process
- Motor faults: A very broad topic covering a multitude of problems
- Programming: Not something I have any experience with but I can point you in the right direction for resources
Everyone is welcome, but please keep the conversation specifically about the BBS01 / BBS02 / BBSHD or similar motors like the Tongsheng TSDZ2. Thanks for reading.
Please scroll down for the forum👇
The real magic of a BaFang BBSXX mid-drive is that they can be mounted on almost any bicycle. After about 16K miles on my BBS02 it started to make some noise. After looking into them I found it would be hard, if not impossible, to find the necessary rebuild parts because BaFang has made so many changes in the 02 builds from year to year. So I bought a BBSHD and now have over 14K miles on it and riding almost every day.
Batteries are the heart of every ebike. The BBS series of mid-drives can use 58.8V batteries with no issues. The more voltage, the more watt-hours, the more range/speed/ride time/etc. Don’t charge past 85% or discharge past 20% of the pack’s capacity and you can triple the life of the pack! Triple the number of recharge cycles on the most expensive disposable part. Look into Grin Satiators for almost any battery. One large battery is better than two small batteries… they can be charged faster and they can offer more ride time without stressing the battery. The downside is weight and initial cost. I use and recommend a pair of 58.8V 35Ah 2058Wh lithium packs. Current lithium batteries can be (are) damaged if charged at below-freezing temps which makes them inconvenient for touring in cold weather.
Mid-drive can also be very harsh on gears and chains. I recommend pairing a BBSHD with a Rohloff Speedhub… they go together like lamb and tuna fish. If you want to put a cherry on top of that get a Gates belt drive and have a better ebike than any production ebike on the market today.
The Best All-around ebike:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27
Building an eTouring bike – https://motoredbikes.com/threads/building-an-etouring-bike.57007/
Today’s Ride – https://motoredbikes.com/threads/todays-ride.56564/
25 Jul 20 – Mowich Lake
https://www.relive.cc/view/v8qkd2LGdKv
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRSTYZ8UjzdpuQ7n8
26 Jul 20 – Rain Forest trail
https://www.relive.cc/view/vQvyDGe2W4q
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WcoVAreB4TUdAiPF7
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwwdaVg4Y5M
https://prnt.sc/tsxt5p
Stay safe.
Thanks for sharing Brian, that’s an awesome build, the Rohloff hub and BBSHD are a match made in heaven! Looks absolutely amazing where you are. If I ever make it over to the States for some touring, the north west is high on my list of places to visit.
Cheers,
Tony
do you know if there is a good blog or you tube how to install this in a catrike or ice trike? or can a good bike shop install this? thank you
There are some good YT videos from Utah Trikes. Here is a link to a Bafang installation: https://youtu.be/b0pPhrby2Pw
Sorry Tony, for my message repeating … I had a trouble to send the message to this web page.
OK, I can try to have a look at the motor and let you know about the result then.
Thanks a lot for your hint!
Regards, George
You’re welcome?
Hello Tony,
I have just installed and my 2nd BBS02 into my wife’s bike. I did it in the same way as the 1st one had been done which was working OK. But an unexpected issue appeared with this 2nd BBS02 – the pedal asist is working in a strange way – as I am using pedals the motor asists for cca 1-2 seconds then breaks for cca 0.5 second and then works for cca 1-2 seconds and breaks for cca 0.5 second and it keeps this performance all the time. If I use the thumb throttle – there is no problem – motor is working OK.
Is there a possibility to solve the issue by myself?
Thanks, George
Hi George,
It sounds like a possible issue with the pedal assist circuit – the sensor is inside the motor and there is a multi-pin plug that connects to the controller. Sometimes this plug is not seated correctly due to too much silicone and the problem can be remedied by simply unplugging, removing the excess silicone and plugging in again. You will need to remove the controller to do this. The other issue could be with the sensor itself – these can be purchased quite cheaply, but you will need soldering skills to swap it out. There are quite a few videos on YT that show how to remove the controller, it’s fairly straightforward and takes about 10 minutes.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony,
as promised I am back again – I had already checked the plugs of the pedal assist circuit then I have tried to replace the motor to the electronics of my other Bafang BBS02 with the same faulty result. Finally I have replaced the pedal assist sensor with a new one without any progress.
Please, do you have any idea what could be wrong there at the motor?
With thanks,
George
Hi George,
Just to double check – you’ve tried a different motor controller and replaced the PAS sensor and checked the controller settings using the USB lead and software. It may also be worth trying the other wiring harness and display just to rule those things out. Also if you have brake cut-off sensors fitted I would unplug them just to rule that out as well. I’ve not encountered these persistent problems with the pedal assist before, so there could be something else at fault in the motor itself. Did you manage to get hold of the supplier?
Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony,
thanks for your quick response … to be precise – I had unmounted the faulty motor from its controller – taken off my wife’s bike and swaped it for my bike motor mutually – after this action my bike started working wrong and my wife’s bike running fine. After this swapping I replaced the PAS sensor at the faulty motor but without success. The only thing I did not perform you mentioned above – to check the controller settings using the USB lead and software because I did not have this equipment at my disposal.
And yes, I have got in touch with the supplier and claimed the defect and they told me it should have been the PAS sensor issue, too /as you mentioned/ and they sent me a new one to replace.
As the last resort I have ordered the USB cable to check the controller settings and hope to replace it eventually with the flawless one from my good bike.
With thanks and regards,
Juraj
Hi Juraj,
Thanks for the update, let me know how it goes. It sounds like the fault could be at the controller end, if it is working fine when you swap them over.
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony,
today I have disassembled both of my motors and finally found out the reason – the faulty magnetic disc ring at the big pinion gear. As I mentioned the jerkiness at pedalling started right away as I installed the motor so this was the faulty ring from the factory – maybe a situation that accurs very rarely.
Good luck a thanks for your support!
George
Hi George,
Thanks for sharing this with the community. It’s not a problem I’ve come across before but it will certainly be very useful for owners with a similar problem.
Many thanks,
Tony
Great post and totally agree with every thing you have said. I have converted 7 Full suspension specialized bikes (epic pro’s, stunt jumper elites & 3 older FSR frames) wiht the 750w middrive. i have had to use smaller 48V batteries which all still generate 1200w of power. However the point is for trailing /off road use, you simply would not have it on full assist for prolonged periods.
For this reason none of them have had any reliability issues. My own bike has done 250miles plus with no issues. Road use at full power is a different story and i do know the mosfats are of poor quality. A company local to me send them away to have better ones fitted making them bullet proof.
The problems i have seen multiple times is in the fitting of the hydraulic sensors. The kits come with 3m tape which you use on the small 10mm magnet and sensor. These i guarantee will fall off. when they do you will lose all power, until you disconnect the lead. I started to super glue them on and now i use a 3mm tap and put a small counter sunk 3mm x 8mm screw through the hole in the magnet PLUS i glue it. NO MORE magnets falling off. Also use 2 part adhesive for the block sensors fitted to your brake levers.
i have always fitted Ebike NEW chains, but inevitably all 7 bikes have required a NEW cassette. You may find the chain will slip in the lower gears on full assist. if your bike is newer you will likely not need a new cassette.
The display screens are easy to scratch and in the sun then are not easy to read, so purchase cheap screen covers on amazon to protect it.
Make sure you buy the bafang tool, i guarantee you the motor will come loose and make a squeaky/rubbing noise when it does. Need to regularly check its tight.
Tony, your experience with multiple bike conversions is invaluable. I’m a retired electromechanical engineer and want to plunge into converting a reasonably priced mountain bike. The brand and model is a Motobecane Fantom. It has Shimano hydraulic brakes, Front and Rear Lockouts, Full Suspension, and 1×12 gear train and 29″ wheels. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/fantomds-eagle-sx-comp-full-suspension.htm
I am unable to find any specs on the frame, hub diameter, etc. Have you had any experience with a Motobecane bike? I am considering a 750w 48V 17.5ahr powertrain.
Hi Craig,
I haven’t converted one of these before and looking at the groupset I would say it has either a Truvativ Powerspline, SRAM GXP or SRAM Dub pressfit bottom bracket. If it has the latter then you would need to machine a shim, but if it has a Powerspline of GXP BB then the motor will fit straight in without any modifications to the BB shell. Here is a link to a good article that goes into greater depth about BB compatibility and the Bafang.
All the best,
Tony
you may struggle to get the battery in the frame. Why not try a smaller 9.6ah which you can get with the smaller height case 90mm, or go to a bag battery which you should get a 14.5ah battery in your frame.
The range is still impressive, and more importantly with a full suspension bike you need to keep the weight down and low so you can still go trailing.
You may need spacers in order for the 44t ring to clear the frame on your bike, bling ring do spacers for £5 a time. I would be careful about going bigger than the 44t if they offer a 42T take it.
Trust me with a 44t and a 11t on the cassette the bike will go 42-43mph still
shimano brakes levers are one of the easier levers to convert to hydaulic sensors, as they have relatively flat surfaces to mount the sensor & magnet too.
good luck you will love it
Hello @Tony
I am researching about Bafang and Tonsheng kits past few weeks, and your article is great resource.
This is my bike:
https://www.cube.eu/en/2016/mtb-hardtail/attention/cube-attention-whitenblack-2016/
From what I read here, Bafang BBS02 can be fitted?
I would like to use motor ass assistance on steep hills MTB and would like to use my legs more on straight terrain. I would like you to to give me your opinion what motor/battery combination to select, so I do not have to much extra weight but still to maintain certain amount of power and radius.
Would 36V or 48V be better for this? is 750W too much?
What reasonable good batterie manufacturers do you recommend? 15Ah, 17Ah? I was looking to this one: https://greencell.global/
Hi Lokz,
I can confirm the Bafang should be compatible with your Cube MTB, I’ve installed the BBS02 on several Cube MTB’s in the past without any major issues.
The Bafang motor weighs around 4.2kg and a 48v 15Ah battery will weigh in at around 3.5kg so the extra weight will be around 7.7kg. Personally I think the BBS02 750w will provide way more power than you would normally need – when I owned one for a year I very rarely used it about level 3 (out of 9) but it depends on how steep the hills are.
I found the 36v 500w version to also be very good, although there isn’t any weight difference. Battery capacity will depend on how far you need assistance. If you’re going for longer rides then a 17Ah would be best. The BBS02 is quite tough to pedal uphill without assist, due to the extra weight and noticeable resistance inside the motor.
Greencell make decent batteries, I’ve had a few over the last couple of years and they’re still going now.
If you have any more questions, let me know.
All the best,
Tony
Hi Tony,
thank you for taking time to answer. In reality, I would rather use Tongsheng TSDZ2 because of torque sensing, but I am afraid to buy it because one guy told me he had problem fitting that motor because of the rear fork shape. Motor cannot be pushed all way in, so there is a problem with chain line. Do you have any experience with TSDZ2 on Cube Aim, Analog, Attention or Acid?
Also, bottom cable routing seems problematic.
People say that TSDZ2 can be ridden without motor assistance much easier than Bafang?
Other possibility is to install Lingbei motor, seems like certain companies from EU still sell it rebranded (Spain, UK). But I do not know how it showed in practice, is it still in production, will there me spare parts, etc.
I do not know if any other company exists which makes affordable mid drive engines that I could use to convert my bicycle?
Maybe solution could be to use rear hub drive motor, I saw new 2021 Tongsheng catalogue where they offer torque sensing rear hubs, but I do not know if that is good solution for mountain biking.
Hi Lokz,
I think you will struggle to fit the TSDZ2 on a Cube Aim frame – it’s a great motor, but has a major design flaw in the clearance between the motor shaft and housing. I have installed quite a lot of Tongsheng motors and I always have to re-route the gear cables and remove the plastic guide (under the bottom bracket). Riding the TSDZ2 is noticeably easier without assist than the Bafang, there’s much less resistance from the motor.
I have yet to test out a Lingbei mid-drive – looking at the design the primary gear looks a lot more robust in design and there are quite few companies in the UK and EU selling it under their own brand names. There’s a detailed thread over on endless-sphere.com about this motor.
There are a few torque-sensing hub motor kits available but I find small hub motors lacking when it comes to steep off-road climbs. I still reckon a Bafang would be your best bet, if you fit a small front chainring like a 34/36t (Lekkie or PreciAlps) and have an 11-40 rear cassette you’ll be able to climb practically anything. A Shimano Alivio rear derailleur will work with an 11-40 cassette (9-speed) or Shimano Deore M6000 or XT (10-speed).
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Tony
Great article, I’ve just bought a kit as i wanted to have a lighter e-bike without any drawbacks or huge costs. I’ve spent a year driving a Raleigh Motus which had a bosh active line mid-drive. It was a pleasant drive for the most part but of late has been giving me some pain in the knees hence the switch.
My question is how does the Bafang mid-drive differ from the cadence motors you would get in rear hub bikes. I did quite like the fact that in the Bosh as soon as you use the pedal you could feel the motor pushing you along. Ive had some experience with rear hub motors (Lime, Uber jump bikes, and fiido DS2) and they are not as smooth, giving you a bit of a kick start when you turn the crack about 45 degrees.
Hi,
The Bafang pedal assist feels quite different to the torque-sensing system on the Bosch – it’s cadence-based so has a very on/off feel to it. Your best bet would be to get a USB programming lead and download the free software and follow this guide on how to alter the pedal assist characteristics.
With a few minor tweaks to the settings you can make the Bafang very smooth, with a nice and progressive build up of power.
All the best,
Tony
Hello again!
I’m back! I had to let you know that today was the actual install of my 48v 750w bbso2 onto the copeland! I saw as you said there was a small weld to hold the wire where the motor would mount after I purchased and put the bike together. I had my angle grinder prepared to dispatch of it but LUCKILY the motor mounted right over it with no issue! The worst part honestly seems to have been waiting for all the CORRECT tools to remove the bottom bracket/crank. No spacers were needed. I installed a speed sensor and brake sensor (magnet) and am wondering how necessary do you think the shift sensor is? Seems to ride really well although the first time I fired it up the throttle stopped responding at all (thought I had blown it up). Turns out the magnet for the brake sensor had fallen off and so the motor wouldn’t engage, lol. Superglued that sucker so now he’s good to go. Will look to purchasing a second battery and doing some clean traveling this summer! Had to say again what a great service you are providing here, and THANK YOU THANK YOU for your quick scholar advice through all the doubts! If I run into any issues I’ll be sure to come and visit haha!
OH, do you still advise against running a 52v Samsung battery on my setup? I saw originally you said something about it and also to adjust some voltage in the device to prevent damage to the controller? Do you still suggest I do that?
Hi Ryan,
The shift sensor isn’t really necessary if you get used to stopping pedalling briefly when shifting (under load / high power). Regarding the battery, I ran a BBS02 with 52v battery for nearly a year and never had any problems. I reduced the max current to 18A (using the USB and software) and lowered the start current on pedal assist from 20 to 10, I didn’t have a throttle fitted, but if you do I would reduce the start current on the throttle down to 10 as well.
I hope this helps, happy riding!
Cheers,
Tony
Brilliant website and so much valuable information here.
I recently bought a Bafang 750w 48v kit and are part way through installing it. I tried to find out which version I have but like so many other people, got nowhere. Anywhere I can find out??
Hi David,
There’s two main versions – the A and B model. The A model was phased out years ago so any Bafang sold since 2017 should be the B model. Here is a link to an article that explains the difference in more detail. All of the BBS02 705w motors I’ve installed over the last couple of years have the separate gear sensor lead coming from the controller.
All the best,
Tony